BERLINER WEISSE

Christopher L. Warner

Berliner Weisse is an interesting, historic German ale.  Its most fundamental definition is that of a “sour, tart fruity, high effervescent, spritzy, and refreshing ale” [1] enjoyed mostly in Berlin (Germany) on a hot summer day. Berliner Weisse is made from barley and wheat malts which are kilned at low temperatures in order to maintain their respective lighter colors.  It is fermented with a combination ale yeast and lactobacillales (the same lactic acid bacteria used to culture yogurt).  Berlin-brewed Berliner Weisse carries an alcohol by volume (ABV) of between 2.5% - 2.7%, perhaps as high as 3.0%.  Here in the States, craft brewers may crank the ABV up to 5.5%.

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Berliner Weisse is best served in a chalice or goblet and traditionally served “mit Schuss” (with a shot) of either raspberry-flavored syrup (red) or woodruff-flavored syrup (green).  Woodruff is hard to come by in the United States, so a capable substitute is vanilla- or marshmallow-flavored syrup. The syrups are added to cut the stringent, lactic acid taste of straight Berliner Weisse.

Conflicting Origins

There are generally two schools of thought among beer historians on the origin of Berliner Weisse.  All seem to acknowledge the derivation of European wheat ales from or around Bohemia (now the Czech Republic), located southeast of Berlin, sometime in the Middle Ages, most likely in the 13th Century when the addition of hops added to beer was perfected.  From this point, historians differ.

One theory states Berliner Weisse is an evolution of a malted barley and wheat ale known as Halberstadter Broihans brewed Halberstadt, just west of Berlin. Halberstadter Broihans was brought to Berlin in the late 17th Century, possibly by French Huegenots escaping the religious persecution of King Louis XIVth.

Other historians point to documents dating back as far as 1642 and 1552 which appear to chronicle the creation of Weisse as purely geographical in or around Berlin.

By the 19th Century, Berliner Weisse was the favored drink having hundreds of neighborhood breweries offering local interpretations.  Through the 20th Century, however, interest waned and today, there may be only one or two breweries left in Berlin producing it, primarily the Schültheiss Brewery, part of the Brau and Brunnen brewery conglomerate.

The People’s Champagne

Grapes don’t grow very well in Northern Germany.  Cereal grains, on the other hand, grow quite well; thus, the popularity of beer in the north.  Modern Berliner Weisse is made from 25% - 30% wheat, but historical documents indicate Weisse may have been made with as much as 50% - 60% wheat.  The remainder of the grist is barley.  Its low ABV indicates Berliner Weisse is more of a session beer.  In its earliest days, Berliner Weisse was sometimes sold in earthen crockware (a precursor to the modern growler), then buried in the sand for up to three additional months for conditioning.

When Napoleon’s forces occupied Berlin in 1809, he proclaimed Berliner Weisse as “the People’s Champagne.” [1]  Modern Berliners are a bit less enthusiastic and simply refer to Weisse as “the worker’s sparkling wine.” [1]

Geographic Recognition

Berliner Weisse is geographically recognized and as with other traditional German beers, may only be referredto as “Berliner Weiss” or “Weissbier” if it is produced within a sanctioned Berlin-based brewery.  As stated, that is pretty much only the Schültheiss Brewery.  The European Union (EU) reinforced the geographic recognition by issuing Berliner Weisse a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).  A PGI covers agricultural products and foodstuffs closely linked to a geographical area. At least one of the stages of production, processing or preparation takes place in the area. [2]

Mit Schuss (With Syrup)

As introduced earlier, Berliner Weisse is traditionally served with a shot of syrup, usually either raspberry or woodruff.  This is to cut the lactic acid characteristic resulting from the use of  lactobacillales.  Tradition has it you first add a jigger of syrup into an empty chalice, then add the Weisse to the glass.  Raspberry syrup turns the Weisse red while the woodruff turns it green.  Because of this, Berliners order their Berliner Weisse “rot oder grün” (red or green). And please, DO NOT ask for a straw!

Technicals

There are many open sources offering descriptions and brewing guidelines, but the most recognized is the Beer Judge Certification Program 2015 Style Guidelines [3], which states in part:

AROMA: sharply sour, somewhat acidic character.

APPEARANCE: Straight Berliner Weisse is very pale straw in color (SRM of 2-4), clear to somewhat hazy, large, dense, white head with poor retention, and always effervescent.

FLAVOR: Clean lactic sourness with low hop bitterness.

MOUTHFEEL: Light body, dry finish, high carbonation.

OVERALL IMPRESSION: A very pale, sour, refreshing, low-alcohol wheat ale.

COMMON INGREDIENTS: Wheat malt content is typically 50% of the grist (as with all German wheat beers) with the remainder being Pilsner malt. A symbiotic fermentation with top-fermenting yeast and Lactobacillus delbruckii provides the sharp sourness.

VITAL STATISTICS:

CREDITS

[1] German Beer Institute, www.germanbeerinstitute.com, website visited April 26, 2016.

[2] http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/schemes/index_en.htm, website visited April 26, 2016.

[3] www.bjcp.org, website visited April 26, 2016.

PHOTO CREDITS

Three Chalices of Berliner Weisse: http://www.besser-bier-brauen.de/sites/default/files/bilder/berliner_weisse/index.jpg, website visited April 27, 2016.

Vintage Brewer: Die Berliner Weiße – Ein Stück Berliner Geschichte,

http://www.craftbrewersconference.com/wp-content/uploads/2012_Meyer_Berliner-Weisse.pdf, website visited 04-27-2016.